The single most difficult part of surfing to me is the "take off" phase. It has been when I started to learn how to surf, and to this date that is the most difficult. What makes it more difficult about this is that when I can take off on smaller and easier stuff then I would want to take off on more difficult waves, and without doing that there is no progress on improving the actual riding.
This is even more so as I will challenge faster and bigger waves on shorter boards.
The latest theme for me is the board slips away from me. The wave comes behind so fast that I just don't seem to have adequate time to stand up, or perhaps, not adequate muscles to do the action fast enough.
I should be able to stand on the front part of the board as soon as possible.
So I am now seriously needing to focus on this aspect to move on to the next step.
As we all know it never ends.
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