Wednesday, September 21, 2005

Session 5199

The last several sessions were so difficult that this morning was a real delight. While the rest of the beach was basically closed out, I picked the south end of the beach with real smooth paddle out with just some push through or going over the waves to get to the lineup. The sets were a far and a few in between, but when they came, they were clean and relaxingly small enough hip to low chest size. It was really nice to surf these waves, since they are so unthreatening and yet when I catch them correctly on my 6'3 Rusty, they worked wonders. Besides, there was just me and another long boarder. And that's another interesting part that started to happen; starting this year, I have started to catch waves on a short board along side long board surfers. I think that this is attributed to more increased paddling power I have gained over time and in some cases I can even paddle from further outside. I am really happy about that.
But even happier part about that is that I was really able to focus more on the waves and become the part of the surrounding, and I continued to realize how much I enjoy being in the water.

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