WavLOGDay 16
Not much to report, other than the fact I went out, caught 1 wave, and that was about the extent of it.
This is a typical scene. There is a guy standing and looking. Probably
thinking... "What a fool guy out there."
I would say to him. "Why did you even bother checking."
thinking... "What a fool guy out there."
I would say to him. "Why did you even bother checking."
You can see the messy condition. This is my Takayama 7'2 Egg board.
Pretty all around board. If the condition gets bad or really big
this is the one I take out. Pretty much substitutes a long board and
it fits between my car seats. Very very important for an "surf everyday"
person like myself.
Pretty all around board. If the condition gets bad or really big
this is the one I take out. Pretty much substitutes a long board and
it fits between my car seats. Very very important for an "surf everyday"
person like myself.
I usually throw away more than 70% of the shots.
I am sharing this. I think is a bit calming down effect to it.
Someone could do an oil painting of this one.
4 comments:
I gave it a shot today at the Jetty--only three lost souls there with me...I only get to HMB four or five times a year...and start all over each time (live three hours away---in the foothills---not many opportunities)...conditions were chaotic...still enjoyed myself thoroughly
thanks for all you do/post
tried today...got an hour in at the Jetty---chaotic conditions...four of us out there...however, I only get 4-5 cracks at it each year (live in the foothills---3 hours away)...re-learn each time out...no matter how messy the conditions...still the best time I could have---thanks for all you do/share
Hey, it is extremely rare to get a blog comment, and thanks you for posting! Glad you had fun after all. If you are driving that far, I am wondering why you did not try Santa Cruz. Anyhow, you guys have good jammy Zinfandels out there. My favorite is Renwood.
rookie move...both posts last night were from me (must have been the wine)
I have always preferred the vibe of HMB over Santa Cruz. For a true novice who grapples with the basics each time---and who just likes to "be"---it is perfect.
Thanks again for the words/pics...it keeps me connected to my karmic home away from home
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