Every once in a while there is such an ideal local surfing day. Yesterday was one of them. To me the ideal means;
- Smooth paddle out, No winds
- Big enough waves. Shoulder to overhead is ideal.
- Not too hollow and hard crashing.
- Just enough time to paddle to the outside.
- Nobody else around, except for a few of my close buddies
Such magic combo happened yesterday on the way to Santa Cruz. I was checking a break somewhere in between and there was only two surfers out. Then another buddy just happened to show up. What a timing!
The waves were delicious and I was able to indulge myself chopping up the waves in all 3 dimensions + time. Waves were not so fast and also allowed me to practice getting in to the wave by paddling super extra hard and then pushing the front of the board down. When that works, and my board and myself takes off as if get attracted into the sweet and almost magical force field of gravity and the fluid motion energy... almost feels like getting sucked into the field, quietly and smoothly but fast. Only when this happens, I am in the early part of the wave, the bottom works right, the top works right, and the ride can be very very long!
This is a type of a day that I look forward to and surfing in shitty conditions is something that is the due that I pay for. And believe me, just the previous session together with this buddy, we had the worst condition at Linda Mar.