Surfing as a Part of Life
I did get out this morning and shoot over 13 images but all of them turned out a dud so no pictures today. The condition was just really poor and we could not even get to the outside due to so much oncoming white water, so today I am going to write a short essay on surfing lifestyle.
In 2008, I can really feel that surfing has rooted as a part of my daily life. Surfing used to not be that way. Let's say that this is similar to, say, a child visiting Disneyland from Ohio and then later the child would become an employee of the Disney corporation and assigned to work at the park every day. Surfing used to be special in the way of something I did occasionally. That has changed from 1-2 days a month to every weekend, then to basically an every-day endeavor.
Making this into an every-day endeavor creates a different set of demands. This is starting to approach to the same level of activities as eating, showering and such. The requirements change, for example, it is now so routine that I will automatically check the condition, plan, budget the time, forecast, and money to do it, and to some extent I will now feel that this activity is my daily requirement rather than occasional work out. I even know that I can wear wetsuits for about 2 seasons and need a replacement. Speaking of equipment, I now only routinely carry and surf two boards, it would not be surprising then that I may start shedding some extra stuff that I have collected over the years, and the moment I would do that, I would go and get some new stuff seeing the empty garage space!
I know that there are many others who has crossed this boundary, made necessary changes in their lifestyles. I've seen many of my friends move to Santa Cruz, or other locals. Some have taken different jobs closer to the ocean, or even some people have gone into career that are more involved in the sport or support of the sport, for example, working full-time in non-profit organizations, or working in touring or event organizations.
What compels us to do this may be different for everyone, and if you ask me deeply why, I could not answer, but there still is one common element that binds us, we are all stoked to get out in the water, surf and get our desires satisfied.