Surfing continues to be a very difficult sport to learn, and more I do it, the more it seems to get difficult. I have written a log to this effect many times, but I guess even if I write about this 1000 times, it would not be enough to put this point through to my WavLOG readers. Of course, many of you understand this.
This morning, I surfed at Montara with my buddy DH, and today's theme was basically the Wave Selection. Of course if it was not wave selection then it would always be something else that works against me. It is more appropriate to describe that today, wave selection was one of the prominent issues noticed among dozens of other issues that I have to work on. Of course you or anyone might say, why do I have to agonize with all that. Well, I think that ties into the ultimate question of the life in general. If you keep asking that question then you won't be able to answer it even if you had the entire life time of the universe. I do find though, a pleasure in focusing at something, but it is a different kind of focus, it is a kind of focus that I can have without really being bothered by a lot of different thoughts. To some extent, by attaining this type of focus, I feel that I would become more confident in focusing on a lot of other things that I do, or I want to do.
Back to the topic of wave selection? It is another one of these things that requires both the wave reading skills as well as having enough strength and endurance to go to where it is happening. One without the other won't work very well. This morning, the breaking section was really shifting from one spot to another, and it starts to happen at one spot for a while, and I go there and then where I was starts to happen. If you can paddle fast anywhere then there is no problem, you just go there as soon as you see a particular section of the horizon darkens. For me though, that's too late, by the time I get over there the set is all done with!
So the next best thing is to try to maximize the opportunity by patiently sitting at one spot where I think will happen. That's probably the basic number 1 of wave selection. But that in of itself is difficult because I think I am doing that, and I can see waves breaking nicely both sides of me except where I am sitting at! Obviously, I need to do a much better job at this, and day like this is a good day again to make myself really humble about all sorts of things starting with this, and then other things in life throughout the day.
Hope that your wave selections are good tomorrow, whatever the wave you are happening to be catching.