Session 6015-6018

Session 6015 (Friday)

Finally the swell power subsided, so I stopped by at Linda Mar before hitting the hard surface of the office desk. Morning surfing like this is something I really like to do. One bad part is getting out of the water, especially when the condition is something I like, and even worse, like this morning, when I started out late.

Session 6016 (Saturday)

With further dwindling swell size, my neighborhood beaches gotten pretty flat, so I was intending to go to Montara. What a beautiful place this is, especially when the sun is fully out, even if I don't catch any waves, it is just worthwhile paddling out. The problem was that it was a bit too powerful and too tricky to select good surfable waves. There were better surfers who were doing it, so I had to basically retreat for this session.

Session 6017 (Sunday First Session)

The swell started to build up again in the morning. Originally some forecasts were predicting 20 ft swells, but it turns out to be about 14 ft swells. The only local options, we felt, was to surf at the Jetty. A lot of white water to gets through to the outside. You'd be caught inside? I am paddling, paddling, and paddling, but when looking back, I am still exactly at the same spot as I looked back. Well, as far as the distance to the shore goes. Strong side currents take me towards the direction of Roosevelt.

Again, retreat temporarily and see what happens in the afternoon when the tide goes down.

Session 6018 (Sunday Section Session)

The tide and even swell subsided. After doing some errands, I got a call from a neighbor buddy so it was a perfect chance to get back out. This is when having two wet suits come really handy. I buy a new suit a year, and use two suits at any given time. After two sessions, I retire one suit and get another. Also this way, one suit gets used half the time so the suit lasts two seasons instead of just one. At any rate, now I am back in the Jetty again. Now the tide turned super low, and when bigger sets come in the wave close out at shoulder size on chest high depth water. And I ended up getting a small ding when I had to bail on one of these close outs.

However there were some fun waves and getting out gotten much easier. I went back and got another board out and surfed the rest of the sessions.