This morning, I scheduled to hook up with a Japanese long board surfer living in Santa Cruz at 7:00 AM. Clio also joined a bit later at a Santa Cruz location.
On the way to Santa Cruz, in the cliff section just before Davenport, I almost hit cows! There were a lot of cars parked some of them look like rangers, then a horse trailer, some pickup trucks. It was still dark so I could not see what was going on. After I passed these set of cars, I started to speed up again then suddenly there were a small herd of 4 cows walking in the middle of the highway. I swerved to avoid them and the ABS also kicked in. I was successfully be able to avoid them but that was a close call. So, apparently the ranchers and the rangers were doing something to contain these loose cows! On the other day, I got a speeding ticket not too far from here, so this section of highway, I should be careful especially when it is very dark.
Back to surfing, I did hook up with Soji, so we exchanged various conversations about surfing, but he is a student and he has started surfing in SC and started a web site for Japanese surfers in SC. Since he posted a classified ad to lure people into this message board, I have been exchanging a few messages now and then with their members. Sounds like he really wanted me to come to a Japanese surf competition that will be held at the San Onofre spot (near San Clemente) in October, so essentially I said yes. He also asked if I will show my "round-house" at the competition, and I said to him that it is a goal for this year and October might be too early! Well, but I think I now set my next bar, and should get there sooner.
Since Soji is a dedicated longboarder, I showed up with my 9 ft Velzy and again it worked a magic. The board turns so well. I also swapped with Clio's Arrow 8'6 egg (which is the same kind I used to have) and it also did a magic! So after all it is not the board that does the magic. I can equally set the rail on the wave on both boards, with the Velzy a bit better due to its length and float. One thing I noticed really well today is my initial motion during the initial turn. I am really crouched down and even before I am fully up on the board, the rail is already on the face. So I am executing the weight shift as a part of take off and it happens so fast. But today, the wave sets were really mellow so I could really analyze. Today, I was too greedy to continue to ride until the water turns white so I did not do much in the way of clean pullouts.
After a 4-month of hiatus, Clio is still surfing great.
After the session we went to a brunch at Paula's on Portola Avenue that's near the 41st. Long line, long wait, but great breakfast. There we ran into couple of more friends of Clio.
Another Santa Cruz kind of a day.
Post a Comment