Finally I am back in the water. I was afraid that even after just over a
week of non-surfing, I would feel rusty, but that did not happen.
Nice sunny day, not much wind and set were coming every 4-5 minutes going up
to head high. Many people were waiting further out, but I joined an "inside"
lineup that consisted of "harder core" short boarders and I had a blast.
They were catching way more waves than those on the outside. Of course, the
inside is usually less crowded too.
With a bit more confidence under my belt, taking off "inside" is more fun
again because I now can get a longer ride even from the inside, thanks to
the ability to get into initial turn sooner.
Now, I am starting to study the outside lineup so I know who will catch and
who would not under what size set, so I line myself up with those that do
not catch very well. Often these surfers would form a shield and prevent
others from taking off from the outside and then I catch the one inside with
my shorter board as the shoulder start to get steeper. Sometimes though they
completely close out then I have to eat it... Often I can duck through.
It was so nice to get back into the water.