Session 8042

WavLOG

Day 42

Definitely I am not putting as many surf days as I have been in prior years, but nevertheless, I do go out than most other people. Thanks to living closer to "this side of the hill."

Compared to Sunday, the high fog started to roll in and the NW winds started to blow. There was a chance of not going to be a good time, but I paddled out at the Jetty "anyway" since my primary goal is to get some exercises before work. From this respect, it is more like my daily jogging routine than anything else and catching waves is a bonus for getting out.

Remarkably, I caught more waves on this session than on both of the weekend sessions and some of them were long rides and definitely some fun cutback actions too. My recent improvements in take-off technique is really paying off. The key part is to paddle hard, paddle longer and don't give it up until the wave has gone past completely. Other details include tuning the weight point as I take off. On a slower take off (slower relative to the wave that is forming that is) I will really try to move the weight to the front of the board, whereas if it is jacking up faster I shift the weight back, and in that case the board is basically sticking out in the air, not contacting the water almost perpendicular to the face of the wave that is forming. And one another thing is paddling just one moment longer before getting up on the board. These are definitely very trickily moves that I could not do until very recently and there are bunch of other surfers who do this a whole lot better than me too!

I was thinking about writing a poetry type thing for this log, but then when I got back, I forgot what I was thinking about. I will try soon though.