I wake up, and the first thing I do is to flip my MacBook's top open. The computer wakes up from the sleep, and I click the Half Moon Bay condition page, the page I made to make my surf planning easier. It was faithfully collecting the local information over night while I was dreaming of, probably, surfing.
5 ft, 11 sec, W swells. Mild offshore. Same spot, a bit smaller and later than yesterday ought to do it!
Getting out of the car, and I felt the feeling of the spring coming already. Balmy, no wind, and sunny, and all around it is green and dotted with yellow mustard plants and purple ice plant flowers with the beach still barren with nobody except for occasional joggers. A bit of the bushy smell pass though as I take a deep breath. A surf beach parking lot used to be a place I had to deal with a lot of upcoming fear, but now I can take the surrounding as more relaxing, inviting and invigorating.
The sand dunes blocks the view, but definitely there is the sound of what seems to be surfable waves breaking as I walk out to do the surf check. The anticipation and the stoke level goes up, as my body gets ready to pump blood into surf muscles.
As I climb up atop the mound of sand for a better panorama over the beach, I see nice break here and there. They are all breaking in the size that I am comfortable... and there still is nobody out. This is the kind of condition and the moment I wait for many many sessions, but it does happen.
As I jump in the water, all of the getting out motion works smoothly; my paddling arms moving at a relaxed slow pace and each stroking arm deep in the water, and I know when I am at the outside. It suddenly becomes more calm and peaceful than most any other places I know.
Here, and especially today, I have no need to be in a hurry. Set starts to happen and I just let them go by and check them out looking from behind. I usually like to wait for the bigger set to pass by, then there would be smaller set. That's when I paddle back in a bit and now, I am seriously looking towards the horizon, and now I am at the right spot, well, more often than it used to be.
When it is the right wave for me, it looks like as if there is someone just opened the gate to a nice smooth road down the hill. It is still infrequent, but when this happens, I get almost pulled onto the road, from there the wave hands the full control to me, and it is amazingly quiet even though wave can be good size sometime.
And when everything works out like this, I can call it a perfect session.