This was another day of quick surfing session while I interweave remainder of Christmas activities. In spite of a few thunder and rain last night, we woke up with sunshine and not much wind to speak of. Got the gear together, suited up and then drove over to the Jetty, but it was just a real messy looking with only one person trying to surf. Gone up north and saw Montara breaking really big, so that was out of question. The last hope was to surf at Linda Mar. The AM low tide did not help but at least here there were some, I thought to be, surfable waves, but as it turned out, I only caught one wave in one hour session, so it was not that great.
The frustrating part about the condition like today is that I would think that a set comes in, hoping the wave to take on a shape, but once I take off, it just crushes and closes down and there was no way for me to surf. There were several of those. So I decided to switch the program and tried to surf the inside, but that did not work out too well either. While the crowd was fairly thin given this was still a holiday for most, added with a fairly small take-off spots we were competing on, it made difficult for me to take some good rides.
But it was good to get out, at the end of the session; I felt like I have burned off a lot of the food that I ate in the past few days, and even felt hungry, ready for more food!
The surf is going to get really huge this week and also the weather getting messy again, this could be the last session of 2005? we will see, but 239 sessions isn't too bad given many adversities I had to bear this year. The year seemed to have gone quickly, and felt that I had work hard to find time to surf, especially in the second half of this year.
Hopefully, next year will bring all of us more quality stokes!
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