Oh what a winter surf season this has been. I have started to surf in May of 2002, this is absolutely the worst winter I have experienced. First the swell size was consistently big for couple of weeks, and then wind and rain poured on top. Usually we don't get both of these magnitudes at the same time. On the New Years, we have experienced a power failure that lasted all night and into a good part of the day.
So this is already the 5th and finally I got the first session of 2006. Both Dog Haus and I felt that we got rusty from not surfing. I tried to keep my hips and knees in shape by riding the Indo board during this time, which, by the way, is extremely helpful and I really should use it all the time regardless of I am surfing or not.
Oh, but it was so nice this morning! We had blue skies, and breaks were not much bigger than shoulder, and to top that off, it was glassy and offshore. So it was a nice welcome back introduction. As usual both of us caught a lot of waves. As with me and as usual, I sat inside and waited for either closeout reforms when big sets are passing through and when smaller sets builds up inside, I practiced a lot of ups and downs. My favorite Surftech 6'6 just worked perfectly especially on small but good shaped waves on the inside. Everything from getting out to taking off right into the face worked out nicely and I had some short but sweet drop downs, nice long rides as well as some fun recoveries after the waves closed out on some take offs.
I am looking forward to more fun and improvement in my surfing skills this year!