Monday, November 21, 2005

Session 5218 ~ 5221

Sessions
5218: FRI 11/18
5219: SAT 11/19
5220: SUN 11/20
5221: SAT 11/21

Obviously, I have not been good at writing lately. Lots of personal tasks outside of working with computer has kept me away from writing WaveLOGs. I know there are many people reading my BS for all these years, so I first apologize for disappointing people. The majority to the time consumption is due to our move, and we still have many boxes in our home that need to be sorted out. The garage is still a mess, but most importantly, I have not quite gotten the system down to get set up for surfing and cleanup after surfing. My wife no longer allows me to use the bathroom to hang my wetsuit so it is like starting all over again. It is very interesting how a move can disrupt the surfing routines!

What a phenomenal week we had in HMB! We got continuous warm sunshine and no wind plus some good swell in the water! I am almost running out of the sun block!

In terms of surfing, Friday morning, I had the Jetty all to myself, but very embarrassingly I did not catch any waves. I was just positioned now right and the waves were breaking at wrong places or dumping right when I took off. This is my version of Zero Wave. I must really looked like a fool from the highway! I should have hit further north as I found out later on.

Saturday and Sunday I have avoided all crowded local breaks and picked a spot further. With the dwindling swell period, we were hopeful. Saturday, two of my long time friends came over from the East Bay, and I apologize for putting you in the situation, as the current was so strong and there were some periods with huge close outs. But again, my buddy Dog Haus showed up in the middle of the session, and he was ripping so it is not the waves, but it is my abilities. Plus I discovered that the rail had developed a crack and water was seeping though creating a stress-line type issue on my Rusty 6'3 board, so I was a bit bummed. The size of this is big enough that I think I am going to pay to have this fixed instead of fixing it by myself. Fixing dings can be fun, but with all these stuff going around me, it would be better to pay for it and save some time (to spend more time in the water).

Finally this is Monday and I did a quick session at LM because spots in between looked rather gnarly when I went down and taken weekly water samples for the Surfriders. But I had to pass by these spots and in just an hour or so time, the sets have really calmed down. But it seems to always be the case, the waves always look good from high up.

I am back in some period of not making much significant technical progress and on this Thanksgiving I will be flying back to Japan and be back on mid 29th. Surfing, as usual, is very difficult sport to learn and there are some periods I just feel that I am just moving backwards and feeling like being such a dork.

Hopefully I can surf next two days, and then on the 30th, that will put me to 225 sessions before December, I am hoping that I can put in 240 sessions before the New Years this year.

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

It's encouraging to realize that even if people are no longer beginner surfers, there are still sessions where they don't catch one wave. this happens to me a lot when the swell is really big (overhead +) and i get mad at myself as i have been surfing over a year. when i don't catch one wave in a session i am really disappointed and take it to heart but i guess it is all part of the learning process.
also, i feel like when i don't go surfing as often as i do in the summer (due to the cold - i live in new york), i am more afraid in bigger swell and so i don't take off on as many waves. does this happen to you? maybe not, since you seem to go almost every day!

Manabu said...

I appreciate Blog comments. As much as I go, I am really afraid of the ocean. I am afraid of it because, I guess, I am just a spec in the universe and things like this huge ocean. As we've seen it is capable of destroying a whole town. How does this relate to what you are asking? Quite often the fear gets in the way and I don't go for it, but every once in a while I realize should I have not had this fear as much I could have done much better. Learning surfing to me includes a lot of up-hill battle with my own fear and insecurity.