Session 5213

Back doing a DP again before hitting the office. I was a bit aggravated as I paddled up and tried to see what the session start time was? No watch! I forgot to put it on, or may have even dropped it. One aspect of doing a DP is that I tend to operate in much more competitive mode than, say, a nice sunny lazy afternoon at the "inside 38th" I am thinking in terms of how many more minutes left, just like in competition where I only got 15 to 20 minute heat, and only the best 3 counts. I am not saying that it is stressful, but I tend to work things out to get the best I can both from the aspect of getting most exercise and as a reward for the paddle outs, I get to ride as many waves as possible. So, speaking of "as many waves as possible" I am a still bit puzzled to know that many surfers tend to line up way far too outside, and then when the waves come, they just cannot paddle into them at all. The waves leave them behind one wave after another. Then every once in a while even bigger set or two come and they just jack up so fast that even if they tried to take off, they just wipe out immediately. In the meantime, I just paddle where the most waves are breaking in the inside and I try to catch as many waves as possible. It sounds rather stupid, but it may not be so, because I also have figured that people tend to paddle out where they see people actually riding the waves. I do my best to avoid them, but sometimes they are just paddling out right exactly down the time where the sweet spot would be. Then there is another surfer that just follow me around too, and I don't like that either. I do my best to get out of his way, but the moment I paddle away from this surfer he's just come to my way. I was sealing my mouth shut as I was looking at this. This type of individual is also very annoying that any bump on the wave, he'd start paddling in to catch, and 2 out of 3 he screws up. So when this sort of thing happens, I'd just wait for the first set, wait him to wipe out and take the second set. The third set is often not easy to take because he would be at it by then. The point I guess I am trying to make here is that I can usually spot a danger that is coming, and I try not to take off around these types of individuals, and also try to make as much room as possible.

The interesting thing of this might be is that I was probably operating in that mode for some time as I was getting up to speed. I think that the problem is of being oblivious to the surrounding than anything. In a good lineup, admittedly I am in the lowest of in the pecking order, somehow, things tend to work out much better, for example if I am paddling out, I duck through and the surfer on the wave just do some turn and get by, and also if I take off first they know how to kick out.

Sorry about some negativity in this log, but I am a regular surfer with a mind of an average person, and sometimes, I ought to report honestly what exactly goes in my mind rather than always so being either too easy going or too uptight.