I had a really excellent session today. It was a rippling day. A local friend at the lineup told me that I should have been there yesterday too. I was too afraid of getting mixed up in the Pumpkin traffic. As a matter of fact, I was watching the traffic grid lock on the 1 highway yesterday from the lineup at the Jetty.
Today was an excellent day. The waves were not closing out like usual, but still fast action, long rides and a lot of up and down action on the face of the wave.
Which brings to the talk about the stoke in all of us.
Why do we come back to this sport so much and so often?
I thought about that more after the session. The reasons that brings me back to the ocean as many days as it has been are many.
It really has a lot to do with perfection that we all strive for, or let me put it another way, it is the road to the perfection that we strive for. We all know that there will not be the perfect condition, because the moment we experience it, there will be the next level of perfection that we need to attain. Right?
It is always so common experience with all of us that as we get out of the water and while we change, we continue to look at the ocean to see if we did not miss out of anything. Invariably, there is one or two more breaks we could have caught that could have been better than all the waves we were in and look forward to the next time we can get back in the water.
And after all, surfing does make us feel really good.
To me it is like perfection the skill and the art. The skills are something we need to build, and the art part come upon it. It is the creativity of the rides themselves that I want to really perfect.
Therefore I do not call this as an addition, but it is passion in all of us that bring back to the water.
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