Sunday, June 07, 2015

The most challenging part of surfing is taking off!

Note, I wrote this note on my NEO Alphasmart and in around 2006, and it was still not posted.
I will assume this is about August 2006... Today in June 7, 2015.

At this point in my surfing, I still find taking off the most challenging part of surfing. Obviously without a good take off, there is no surfing. As the skill level goes up, so is the willingness to take either bigger of faster waves. For me the main focus is to catch faster and hollower waves because there are a lot of those in my home breaks, and also when I do catch them they are much more thrilling. Also in these types of waves, it is often good to take off at an angle, as when you take the route of going down straight the wave is already closed down and not riding the shoulder.

And to do this, what I need is the seer paddling strength, and that's where I have realized was finally starting to build up; instead of paddling evenly on both hands, I now paddle harder on one arm to steer the board in the direction I want.

1 comment:

Cynthia said...

Better late than never! Nice to see the WavLog back even behind the times.