Thursday, November 06, 2008

Step Right Up Front Please!

Step Right Up Front Please!



Every so often, I do get some candid advise from fellow surfers. I was surfing on a break near Ventura a few weeks ago, and this surfer told me that I need to be on the front of the board more. That's after I screwed up one of the take offs. I was actually having fairly good day, catching many waves and taking long rights. And one time I screwed up a take off, this guy was watching me. This was also a beginner break and people are very friendly along that line so that may be a part of the reason why.

At that moment, I said, "Thank you." and paddled back out.

But every time I get some comments like that, I should take it very seriously. Because whether the advise is really true or not, it does make me think like "Have I thought about that lately?"

The truth is that no I have not been thinking so much about that. I actually have been thinking about taking off more and more deeper into hollower waves and how some people can do it and cannot. That thought have been occupying me for quite some time.

But come to think of it, definitely, I do have to give another long thoughts about stepping into the front of the board. Lately I have been having some problems about the board slipping out of me again a lot. I know in theory that's because I am not stepping forward quick enough. But until I was told this, I totally forgot about the importance of it. What might sound funny though is that I was very consciously aware of putting the weight forward during paddling into the wave.

This is a bitter reminder that surfing requires a complete total execution of all the steps. While I do say that practicing each aspect of a take off or a ride is very important, unless all of them come together, I would not have a completely satisfying ride.

This, of course, is true in anything we do, and that surfing really does teach important life lessons.




3 comments:

Craig Oda said...

how was the board slipping out from under you? Why does stepping forward stabilize the board? Is it because if the weight is too far back, the board becomes unstable?

Manabu said...

Craig: This is the standard slip out scenario. As you flick up or a few moment after that the board is much ahead of you and you are falling behind. It probably happened because when I flicked up on the board I did position myself forward enough. Without the board weighted forward, the board did also not gained any speed... end of a ride.

Georges ABOLIN said...

I like the way you think about your surfing man.