Da WavLOGWhy Is It So Darn Difficult To Find The Best Surf?!
I am sure that we have been all frustrated here and there when we try to go out with friends and the surf condition do not meet everyone's taste. Also, how about when you get surf reports from your friends, and you go out and it is nothing like what your friend described.
I was thinking about this for the past few sessions, and basically I came to the conclusion that there simply is no really a perfect condition for everyone because there are just so many parameters affecting the surf. Even just for one person it is more like dozen times in a year or two everything would work out perfectly (given that you get out a lot!)
The basic ingredient is the swell, and it can come from all different directions, all different periods and heights. They almost never are the same.
Then the tide which will change on an hourly basis on top of a larger cycle that changes over about 28 days.
Then comes the winds. This one is probably simpler ones out of most of the parameters. I just tend to like "no or little winds." Too much offshore is just as bad as onshore, and sometimes I like onshore conditions. It just soften the things a bit especially then things get a bit bigger.
Around here, we need good sand bars and that just shifts all year around and in the summer and in the fall, we just lose them altogether until the next few big days happen.
Then there is the skill of a surfer. The biggest I am willing go for is about 10-12 ft face, and my comfort level is about 4-5 ft faces. Some people want even smaller and some people I only see them in the parking near the break when it is at least double their heights (But actually I do not know they actually surf these waves.)
If we were to wait for all of the above to be the best for you, then you need to not only wait but look for quite a while for all of these to line-up. And if you add something that would work for everyone in your surf group. Well, might as well forget it!
We often hear about "you have to be in the market to catch the upside." As someone who go out pretty much "no matter what the condition" I had quite a few great conditions I was in and nobody else was in the water!
1 comment:
Manabu quote;
"The basic ingredient is the swell, and it can come from all different directions, all different periods and heights. They almost never are the same."
That is of course true.. every wave is different like a finger print. Everyone's finger print are unique and somewhat.... well just different. My taste of waves are always waist high and fun. I'm not a huge over head wave rider. But sometimes these unique waves can creep up on to you with our expectation and it will test your skills weather you are worthy to ride or not. That is all depends on everyones perspective and patience. Each wave has its personality... mostly being sarcastic. =) Surfing for life everyone.
-Bernie
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