Thursday, June 08, 2006

Another Royal Hwaiian Treatment

Day 3 at Waikiki:

Now that I have gotten my "own" NSP 9'2 board in the locker that I can take out any time, I am doing two sessions a day; one in the early morning and another in the late afternoon when the sun is no so darn strong. This morning was a So-so session, but this afternoon I paddled out again to "Royal Hawaiian" spot again. And lone behold, I had another one of those 2-minute ride again. It is a long and long paddle out there but once I am out there, the breaks a bit more powerful than the inside Waikiki, and also it is much less congested with no lessons, no outrigger canoes and catamarans. So I caught another one of long rides, in fact two of them. I would imagine if there is real good S swells in place this place can really rock!
For those who are just starting to learn how to surf Waikiki is probably one of the best spots in the world to learn how to surf. First of all, the water is warm, and you don't need to wear wetsuit (but do need to put on good sun block). Secondly the breaks are really gentle and nice and non-threatening. The only other place that I know this kind of break happen is the inside Cowells in Santa Cruz. Another thing is that the vive here is really great. I have not seen anyone yelling or even colliding upon each other. Even seasoned surfers that hang around the inside Waikiki stake off just straight down, and will give you a plenty of room to surf. Experts will only turn and trim on the face if nobody else is on the surf.
So contrary to what I have heard, I did not experience the real "crowded" scene here, and if that is a concern go out before all of the rentals and activities start, say before 8 a.m. and you will be just fine.

So, in terms of surfing, especially at our levels, there is no problem at all.
Waikiki would be a perfect choice for you, if you have older parents and relatives whose purpose in life have mainly shifted over to shop and shop and shop, and eat and eat and eat, while your goal is to surf, surf and surf. You can leave them alone shopping to their hearts content while you do exactly the same, just go out and surf all the time. Just set up a time in the evening when and where to meet to eat, get drunk, come back to the room, crash, get up early and surf, and eat lunch with them. It is really amazing that these two almost completely opposite mode of life can co-exist in this almost Las Vegas time forest of high-rise hotels and shops!

I must say though, I am starting to miss the cold refreshing water, fighting with currents and trying to time and position for much stronger waves. This is "too easy" for many of us, and it is fun for a while, but if you have been working on how to make the best out of these crappy waves we got in Pacifica and HMB, then you might feel like going back out there and try to see if you'd catch the waves just as well as you have been here in Waikiki. No wet suit is great, paddling hands are really light, but then I do miss duck diving through overhead waves in Montara and the Jetty. I can get outside paddling nearly 1/2 mile out, that gives me a confidence, but my arms are just as relaxed as before surfing. When I am in the waves of Nor Cal, I get really tired, and feel like I got some substantial excercise.

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