Sunday, May 28, 2006

Do surfers get jaded?

That's the topic I have been thinking about for a while because I have been wondering if I am going down the same path of other surfers that I have met over the years, though I don't event know exactly what this "same path" is. So in this log I would like to explore what that is.

When I started to surf, I have noticed distinctly some characters in surfers that appear to be around for a while. This is especially true around established breaks.

I have noticed that some surfers are continuously cranky and at times they appear to be a bit arrogant towards other surfers. I've noticed that they appear not to be having much fun, when on rare occasions when I caught waves, I enjoyed so much. Of course not all of the surfers are like that, but there always are several. So there always is a chance that I might join one of them. Of course, I know this type of behavior is somewhat reinforced by some exclusivity of surfing breaks and the overall increase in the general surfing population. The question to this though is will I become part of it simply because I participate in the sport for a longer time? I am hoping I would not.

The second issue is that I actually surf with less number of people these days than I used to. When I started, I need to surf with other people because it was not fun just to go out by myself, feeling scared, inadequate etc. So we set up sessions, called around with other people to go out with etc. Going to many different places were actually fun and would take extra energy to get up early or driver much further, set up long weekend trips to So Cal, and go on Surf camps etc.

As time went on, I have found a few people who consistently I surf with and, actually it is more like I go there and other people I know are out there, not specifically setting time or place to surf. Sessions are starting to happen more on "organic" basis. This is really great because I remember when I try to do a session with people it took me quite a bit of energy.

As the part of the second issue is skill related. I am not claiming that I am a really a hot surfer, but on the other hands, but I have started to make differences in where and the type of waves out there. This is where I am actually a bit stuck; I am not good enough with good people to surf with them all the time, and when I take other people out with me to some of the breaks that I think is fun, they would not set their board into the water thinking that it is too challenging to them.

But then I think all of that is coming around, and I have been hopeful of this coming back around.

In the interest of saving time and driving, I have started to go in even when it is kind of small and crappy, a kind of waves that I was happy with when I started out, and try not to always surf outside, but pull inside a bit. Now I take out a board that might be either fun or a bit challenging, and try to get the most out of it. I have realized that that give me a lot of practice too. I still take my Doyle foam board occasionally. It is actually difficult to turn this board, but with that there is an additional challenge of actually making this board turn, and when I do that I actually realize something about turning on performance boards.

But I do need to continue to watch myself out and make sure that I would not become a jaded surfer. I should go back to the first day out every session out!

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