Greed, Punishment and Rewards

It was the final day of our mini vacation, and we planned to stop by at another spot further up surf and head home. But, we also checked a spot close to where we stayed, and it was breaking in the size and the shape that I like; about shoulder high, good shape and soft enough. On top of that there were only 2-3 people and peaks were happening all over the places so I could have had my own waves.

Well, still determined that we should hit another spot, we got back in the car and headed up to the point about 20 minutes up the road. As we drove up the situation looked more and more bleak. The waves gotten looked smaller, the prevailing wind made the surface more disorganized. Finally we arrived at the spot, and there was nobody on the wave. This is one of the best reef spot in California, but today there was nobody and it was that bad.

We got back in the car and headed back to where we were. By then nobody was surfing but the waves were still about the same; sets coming in every 2-3 minutes interval, and basically I got to own the entire beach to myself for the next hour and half. Caught tons of waves, really relaxed and rode easy but really fun waves, not even minding about techniques, and just free surfed? And that's something that I have forgotten doing for a long time. Just free surf and don't worry about techniques or fighting for the next break with another surfer. Catch a wave, paddle right back out on glassy surface, rest for some good breath, and ready to catch another.

It was really a treat and kind of surfing that I have not done in a long while. I should remember to do that now that I can actually surf the waves, why worry.

Next time the wave looks good (enough), I am not going to look further, I should go in and enjoy.

Please, and please stand by...

I have been taking a bit of rest on this department. I know, I know. And I even know that a lot of people come back to my Blog to share with me about my progresses and defects. But lately I have been thinking a lot about what it is that I am trying to do. I hope you understand. Yeah, it is really easy to write that I went out and say how many waves I caught etc., but somehow I don't think that you are coming back to this spot to find that out. Are you? I think that you want to know a lot more about in-depth what I go through trying to become a better surfer. Of course, what the heck is a "better surfer". Well, I think that's also up to me to define what that is. So, please hang around and hang on. Don't give up on me. I am really giving a lot of thought about how I can make it a more worthwhile sharing and reading experience to you.

Please stand by...